The iconic designer Giorgio Armani passed away last year. Considering the impact he had on me, my life, and my career, I wanted to take a moment to share what it was like to work with him and how it shaped my values. In all honesty, he was such a powerful inspiration; his ethos informed the work of the following decades as a consultant with my many clients and brand owners.
Meeting Mr Armani
I was happily working as a knitwear designer for a brand in Milan when I first met Mr Armani, a year before joining his company. I met him through a close friend who already worked there, so I was very lucky to get to know him personally.
It was not long before I was invited to stay at his house on Pantelleria. A curious man, he used to quiz me about my design work and was perplexed that I could be happy designing for any company other than his own.
I told him about my journey from graduating from Edinburgh College of Art to completing my master’s at the Royal College of Art. My career began with a brief stint in couture houses in London and Paris. I then moved to Italy to work at Gilmar and later with Marina Spadafora, where I was working at the time.
I was a highly trained designer skilled in wovens and knitwear, which intrigued him. He was actively looking for someone strong to lead his top collection, “Collezioni”, a licensed line that was hugely successful in the USA.
Following my visit to Pantelleria, Mr Armani asked me to meet him in his office and offered me the position of director of “Collezioni” womenswear. He explained it was the first time he would hire an in-house designer directly to design and oversee that line. I would be responsible for all collection development, from design through campaigns, and would work with the licensee while reporting directly to him.
I didn’t answer straight away; I took some time to consider. Not too long, of course, it was the chance of a lifetime, and I accepted.
My first day at Armani
When I began working with Mr Armani, it was the nineties. It was a time when he had just moved from his primary residence, Via Borgonouvo 21, his actual home and the place where the design office had been until then.
He had just moved up the road to Via Borgonouvo 11. It was a period of quick expansion. He had scaled to the point where he needed a much bigger office, and the palazzo at no. 11 was a vast, beautiful, classic building, with a three-coloured cobblestone Cortile (courtyard) surrounded by imposing columns. It spanned five floors. Everything from business operations and HR, from design, ateliers, fabric research and fitting rooms, the casting office, and photography studios. They were all in the same place. Thinking about it now, I realise what a modern thinker he was. He wanted control over every aspect, from the design concept to photography campaigns.
I can’t even remember what I was wearing on my first day, but I know I was very nervous. The words ‘Giorgio Armani’ were written in large letters on the glass door as you enter. I felt as if I were entering some secret palace of fashion. Indeed, it was. I was entering the world of one of the most iconic and important designers in fashion history.
One of his beautifully dressed staff members met me at the front door. They kindly showed me in and introduced me to HR, where we began the onboarding process. Later, I was shown upstairs. We wound our way up the most beautiful staircases to the top floor, gorgeous glass offices overlooking the courtyard. I was shown to my office, a pristine glass cubicle. What was quite telling was that everything was so uniform, so neat. Not what I imagined a working design office would look like.
The power of an international brand
“The new studio on the 4th floor was a bright, long corridor of glass walls and doors. Pale grey carpets and cream walls lined the space. Shuttered windows looked out to the courtyard. On each desk sat an identical stationery kit: one picture frame, one pencil box, one tray for white paper, and some shelves. We were under strict instructions not to display anything personal and to keep the space clear and tidy.“
– The Fashion Switch, Joanne Jong
It dawned on me that this was the first time I’d worked as a designer for a truly international brand whose owner’s vision was so strong that it covered the smallest details of his designers’ offices and what he expected of them.
This may seem extreme, but having such strong views on office layout and staff behaviour set a strong culture for the company.
It was an interesting wake-up call. Entering that world showed Armani’s brand vision filtering down to the desk on which we would design. It struck me that he had rigorous control over every detail. That unwavering discipline was what I would learn most.
Even though it felt intimidating, I actually felt I had arrived, marvelling at the finely tuned machine. This was a maison of the highest level, an international company with high standards. From the moment anyone walked in, everyone knew. Mr Armani had set a benchmark: stay true to your vision and aim for the best.
Working with the best in the business
During the years of working together, I learned in depth all the nuances of beautiful fabrics, working with the best in the business. From luxury textile mills in Biella to artisanal print companies in Como, it opened a door to the world’s finest craftsmen. It was magical to design and create in such a rarified environment.
I learnt so much as a creative, but more than that, working at Armani was a masterclass in how brand vision can shape a business. He set values without speaking them. The tone was clear everywhere. The brand’s power was strong. His vision permeated every action, design, product, fabric, texture, and colour choice. Unwavering confidence in his vision guided negotiations with businesses, the press, and buyers.
Looking back, I learned that running a business from a single point of view is rare, especially in today’s fast-paced corporate world. He often said he didn’t think he would have become the success he did if he had been born in a different era. The industry has changed so much, and the opportunities for young designers just aren’t the same.
Working with him was incredible, but not for the faint-hearted.
He was meticulous and laser-focused. Nothing ever escaped his eye. At times, it could be pretty terrifying. I remember how nervous I would get presenting collections to him in what we called the ‘Sala Bianca’ at his Milan headquarters. We would spend hours debating the tiniest adjustments to a garment, the curve of a lapel, the slope of a shoulder line. Occasionally, I’d summon the courage to defend a design choice I felt strongly about. He’d fix me with a stern look, but there was always a flicker of humour in his blue eyes. He is truly an irreplaceable titan of the industry. What an unspeakable loss for the world of fashion.
– The World Reacts to the Death of Giorgio Armani,
Joanne Jong, quoted in Women’s Wear Daily
Stronger visions lead to stronger brands
In this new corporate era, very few people have a personal vision expansive enough to extend beyond themselves. His vision was strong enough to translate into an endless range of products: clothing, watches, furniture, hotels, interior products, sheets, and towels.
His brand was powerful. He brought all licenses in-house and built a vertical structure, giving him complete control over the brand and its image. It’s an impressive achievement. I was privileged to work with him during that rapid period of international expansion.
The fashion industry has changed. But the fundamentals of success, as he taught, have not. He taught us to always understand how to elegantly solve a problem for your customer. This idea of being incredibly customer-focused inspired me to write my book, The Fashion Switch. Through my framework, I now work with clients worldwide, helping them align their creative and business vision.
The business is a crown jewel that, following his death, faces an uncertain future with hard decisions for the family ahead. Whether they pursue an IPO or sell a significant stake (up to 54.9% within five years), either way, it will end decades of independence.
When Mr Armani passed away, it was a sad moment personally and for the whole industry. It feels as if his departure marks a point of no return for what was once a design-led fashion industry. A fully scaled international brand that is still privately owned and led by a single creative vision is rare. It’s unlikely we’ll see another like him.
My time in Milan and the memories of working with him will remain with me forever. It was a privilege, and his impact was profound. I’m also passionate about the intersection of creativity and commerce. It was extraordinary to have lived and worked with a legend. To learn, watch, and observe how he did that so consistently, and how that magic happened.
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Joanne Yulan Jong is a Creative Strategist, Fashion Writer, and Author of the bestselling book THE FASHION SWITCH ‘The New Rules of the Fashion Business’. She has been invited to be a regular columnist for WWD magazine.
