Why is it that international catwalks are so full of colour, yet it remains so hard to find flattering colours in the stores? Throughout my many years of creative work in the industry, I’ve seen a shift; there’s a colour gap between fashion shows and retail.
Fashion shows today are more about brand perception and less about the clothes. There is a competition between the brands to find the most extravagant and excessive locations and they invite the most exciting guests and host the most extraordinary event. The inspiration from fashion week, and these extraordinary events, to more accessible brands used to be much more evident.
So we have looked at what’s changed.
The financial and logistical challenge
Catwalks and retailers struggle because producing colourful clothing is a financial and logistical challenge for brands. Fashion businesses today rely on sales data to guide their buying decisions. Neutral colours, such as off-white, navy, black, camel, are reliable best-sellers. These shades are safe investments because they sell through at high rates.
“In today’s uncertain retail climate, companies are reluctant to take risks…”
McKinsey, State of Fashion 2025
From inspiration to production
Fashion designers often begin collection concepts with a broad, vibrant colour palette. It can be inspired by art, movies, and other cultural influences. But through development, they are refined, commercialised, and, in other words, dumbed down.
What customers don’t know is that having many ‘options’ or variations of colour in the same item requires the brand to commit to significant MOQS (Minimum Order Quantities). Buyers are evaluated. Then based on their purchasing decisions and judged by sell-through performance in meetings. In today’s uncertain retail climate, companies are reluctant to take risks.
Fast fashion giants and their advantage
Where can you shop for more colourful clothes? Well, fast fashion giants like Zara and H&M have a colour advantage.
Agile supply chains enable them to test and produce trending hues fast. While a vast scale means even experimental styles can exceed minimum order quantities. If a shade performs well, they can restock much quicker.
Luxury and mid-tier brands have to operate differently. They invest heavily in inventory, committing to large runs. If a bold colour doesn’t sell, they’re left with unsellable stock.
Where can we go from here?
One thing that I do know is that it is heartbreaking for designers when their vision is diluted. But it happens often as companies stay cautious, prioritising sales security over experimentation.
We see the cost of tariffs beginning to bite and the prices will unfortunately be passed on to customers. We will start to see brands and retailers focus on full price and reliable sell-through rather than catwalk trends.
But, there are brands that find solutions in this conundrum.
Through my work with House of Colour and brands like ME+EM, I have seen how important colour still is. I have also seen how brands can take it from fashion shows and retail.
Read my full guest blog for House of Colour here and learn more about why brands find colour so tricky. I also cover those that have managed to harness colour within their collections as a business strategy.
At Yulan Creative, we assist business leaders in weaving best practices into their business from concept to final products. We can see your brand differently, uncover the uniqueness, and align your creative vision with your business strategy. If you need that clarity, why not contact us today.
Joanne Yulan Jong is a Creative Strategist, Fashion Writer, and Author of the bestselling book THE FASHION SWITCH ‘The New Rules of the Fashion Business’. She has been invited to be a regular columnist for WWD magazine.
